Milos, Greece's Best Kept Secret
Inspired by a Conde Nast Traveller article I stumbled upon, me and my three girlfriends set Milos as our first island hop on our 10-day Grecian adventure. Less known (and less touristed) than its Cycladian neighbors, Santorini and Mykonos, you'll experience fair prices, delicious authentic food, top-notch hospitality, and a little peace and quiet. Not to mention the stunning, untouched natural beauty. Here's what we did during our 72 hours in Milos.
Day 1. Our 30 minute puddle jumper plane ride dropped us off on Milos's adorable landing strip, basically a corn field. We were then escorted by who seemed to be the only driver on the island to our beautiful hotel, Tania Milos, where we were affectionately greeted with the tastiest fresh cakes. Donned in our swimsuits and SPF, we relaxed by the sea until lunchtime (4 p.m. Grecian time) and then strolled the coast to our dock-side meal of octopus, Greek salad, eggplant dip, chickpeas, and smoked fish. A nap, sunset viewing, and a relaxing dinner, finished off Day 1 a success!
Day 2. After breakfast al fresco (homemade by a Grecian grandmother), we toured the island by boat. We cruised past the colorful fishermen's villages of Klima and Skinopi, went swimming in the open-roof cave of Sykia, and snorkeled and lunched from the boat in Kleftiko. The food (fresh shrimp, octopus, bruschetta, Greek salad, and more) and drinks (new ouzo fan over here) were delicious and plentiful, and the captain fantastic! The waters were crystal clear and the most stunning shades of blue.
Post adventure, we enjoyed some vino and the sunset from our hotel. This was a true treat every night, as each room has its own large, sea-view balcony, and the contrast of pink and blue hues against the stark white buildings was truly magical. Next up, a leisurely stroll to dinner in the adorable port-side village of Pollonia.
Day 3. When things got weird. We had planned to rent 4-wheelers and cruise around the island, but Greece had secretly enacted a law requiring we have an international driver's license. So, instead, we were relegated to the taxi line. First stop, Sarakiniko. In laymen's terms, the moon. We strolled around, took a swim, and struck a pose (or 10).
We thought about walking to our next stop, Mandrakia, for lunch, as the gentleman who would not rent us the 4-wheelers assured us we could do it. But thought better of it when we realized we were wearing flip flops, not moon boots. Lucky for us, our cab driver appeared. Or maybe she knew we'd be stranded? Mandrakia was not so hot, unless you like stray, one-eyed cats that steel your cheese pastries. We called for another cab to take us to the hilltop town of Plaka, and who would arrive but our favorite (and the only) driver! Plaka at first seemed like a ghost town (our fault for visiting during siesta), but turned cute when we found spritz corner. Spritzes cure even the weirdest days. Although day three threw us some curve balls, I don't think we've ever laughed so hard! So, I'll call it a win :) The next morning we stuffed ourselves with one last breakfast at Tania's, and then off to Santorini!
Where to stay. We loved Tania Milos! It is in the coastal town of Pollonia, which I found the most charming of the three main options (the other two are Adamas, near the larger port, and Plaka, on the hilltop). Tania's mother cooks a fresh breakfast spread every morning, and she makes the best pies and cakes. The beds are comfy, and best of all each room has a large balcony with stunning sea views.
Where to eat. Enalion was so good we ate there twice. We loved the chickpea salad, eggplant salad, and tzatziki. Armenaki had some yummy seafood. Both restaurants are in Pollonia, right on the water.
What do do. Take a boat cruise! We enjoyed ours with Oneiro. You leave feeling like part of the family, and very full. The hilltop town of Plaka is cute, but don't go during siesta. And Sarakiniko beach is a must do! Now that you've been warned of the international driver's license fiasco, just get one so you can cruise the whole island on your 4-wheeler.
